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When visiting Sicily there are things you just can’t avoid.
You really have to try local dishes such as arancini – savoury cones of saffron rice, filled with ragu and deep fried; and cannoli, crisp pastry shells filled with sweetened, whipped ricotta and topped with pistaccios or candied peel..
All over the island you’ll see fichi d’india (prickly pear) and bougainvillea, growing wherever they can find a spot. Vines, lemon trees and olive groves are typical sights in the countryside, while picturesque narrow streets, stone houses, bustling markets and imposing churches are to be found in the villages and towns. This is Sicily.
Cast an eye on any shop window, souvenir stall, or master ceramicist and you’ll see something else quite unique to the island. Plant pots cast in the shape of heads, usually sold in pairs, a woman and a man. These are the Teste di Moro, the Moor Heads, a symbol of Sicily derived from a legend of passion and revenge between young lovers.
Palermo in the 12th century was home to a most beautiful, young woman. She never left her house, preferring instead to pass her days caring for the luxuriant plants which she grew on her balcony. Her loveliness shone through her perfect complexion, and her beautiful eyes had the same depth and vivid blue hue as the nearby gulf of Palermo .
One day, while tending her flowers, she was spotted by a handsome young Moor passing below her. As he gazed up at her he was struck by her beauty and in that very instant he fell head over heels in love with her and was determined to make her his own. Without hesitation, he knocked on her door, entered, looked deep into those captivating blue eyes and declared his undying love.
Passion blossomed and the two lovers were entirely enraptured by each other.
Some months passed by before the young man admitted that he must soon return to where he’d come from. He shared the devasting news that he had a wife and two sons awaiting him. In that moment the young woman’s love turned to bitter hatred as she realised how she’d been betrayed.
She waited until her handsome Moor was sleeping before taking the ultimate revenge. First she took his life and then cut off his head. That way she believed she could keep him with her forever. She brought his head onto her balcony and planted it with young basil shoots. Every day she cried sorrowful tears which watered the basil and made it grow. Her neighbours noticed the abundant herbs. Convinced it was because of the exotic pot she’d planted the shoots in, and not wanting to be outdone, they had clay pots made to mimic it.
So now, wherever you go on the island of Sicily you’ll see these pots in a million different guises. They come as a pair and are usually colourful and richly decorated with flowers, fruits and jewels. They recall the Legend of the Teste di Moro and remind us all of the consequences of betrayal….
